Greece's Identity: A historical meeting point of Europe and the Mediterranean

The Grecian identity is strongly tied to its history and to its distinct juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern. Greece has invested a lot in updating and tidying up their country and those that live permanently among the brilliant blue waters and ancient ruins are 93% ethnic Greek and 98% Greek Orthodox. This homogeneity makes for a very strong feeling of tradition and culture within the country both the mainland and on the Islands. Greeks continue to unite under their language Ellinika which uses the Greek alphabet, the oldest in the world. While luckily most words are translated into English as the Greek spelling can be very hard to decipher. As a society that has long seen traders and different leaders they are proud to be very open to visitors and will work to help bridge the language gap with a high portion speaking English.
Athens from the Acropolis

The food in Greece especially reflects their connection to the sea, and has a very Mediterranean style. This was the first location we traveled to during MUDEC that we really ate only authentic national dishes. They were extremely easy to find at really good prices. We would get a full dinner with drink for around ten euros. Our first night in Athens we ate at a rooftop restaurant outside at the base of the Temple of Nike, lit up and overlooking the city. The man that flagged our friends down on the street and called down the road for Marilyn and I until we appeared, was apparently also a musician at the restaurant. Greek women and even some men would spontaneously get up from their dinner and join the music for a traditional dance. It was really neat to see people celebrating tradition on their own accord, we usually witness tradition in a tourist or formal setting, this type of banal nationalism keeps their heritage alive in a sea of tourism.


We spent most of our time on the Island of Santorini, an Aegean jewel fabled to be the lost city of Atlantis, because of its history of being buried in volcanic ash. It has exceptionally fertile ground from the former eruptions and across the caldera you can still see the large active volcano that is the panoramic focal point for its renowned red sunsets. The geographical makeup has formed the city and you can look out across the sea from the winding cobble stone paths perched precariously along cliffs and lining the sunwashed cliff sunken houses stacked high above the beach. They are famous for the vegetables grown here such as tomatoes, olives and the unique white eggplant. The farmers have historically inhabited the upper reaches and now a days with the tourist industry and business of the coast there are also fisherman along the edges. This location allows for wonderful seafood at local prices, served still in its original form which took some getting used to for me! I usually prefer not to have my food stare me in the eye or high five me, even if it is on accident.
We really enjoyed the small feel of Perissa the town we stayed on in Santorini we would often run into tourists and workers from previous days who would greet us with friendly questions on how our excursions had played out. The pressure of the tourism business also means that many people recommend you to friends the man that sells ferry tickets to his friend that has a bar or our hotelier to her friend that rents atv's etc.
Our biggest mishap with the Sea and tourism came on the day we initially tried to travel out to Santorini from the port of Piraeus. Weary from 12 hours of travel the night before at 7 am we were already dreading the 8 hour ferry trip. We learned after many people avoiding the question that there was a solid strike by port workers that would last for the whole day. I think the morning was best described by the associated press, “Greek passengers booed strikers chanting slogans and blocking ferry gangplanks, while foreign tourists sat despondently on their suitcases.” While we chalked up the strikes to their more active civil unrest, it also showed how their economy is affected through the international programs being used to help pull them out of debt. This type of strike poses a real threat to Greece's economy with 1 in 5 jobs being in tourism many islands are very dependent on the summer tourists to keep their businesses afloat (AP). I found it interesting that according to labournet.net the IDC or International Dockworkers' Council has established a front against the European directive and over 90 ports have protested similar rights violations to the profession of dockworkers so in a way they have also shown unity through this strike. I found it interesting to see the ways that Greece acts as a bridge for Mediterranean states to the greater European population and how it continues to work to find its niche.

Santorini
To read more about the port and economic identity:
Tourists stranded by Greek strike in port of Piraeus:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/world/europe/10390221.stm

Greece: Five Days of Strikes in Last Two Weeks
Http://www.labournet.net/docks2/0506/greece3.htm


Strikers Disrupt Ferries in Main Greek Port:
www.goog.com/hostednews/ap/articleALeqM5iXUJvBknZ

For more on Greek Identity:
“Greece and the Mediterranean: Shifting Foreign Policy”- Dimitris Xenakis

Santorini Eruption and the Legend of Atlantis:
www.geology.sdsu.edu/how_volcanoes_work/santorini.html

Greece's economic woes are secondary to its crisis of Identity:
www.irishtimes.com/newspaper0122/12242628/world/2010/

Non Touristy Tourism

One of the most relaxing weekend trips I have taken so far was to Southern France. Right after we all finished with our Spain study tour, I immediately took the train to Agen. The whole purpose of this trip was to visit my old exchange student Thomas Drape. It had been almost two years since I last saw him, and I could hardly wait for a reunion. The trip started smoothly enough, but once I got to Bordeaux for a layover, I missed the connecting train and was told there was not another one until the morning. The police officer was very nice, however, and let me spend the night in his office. He explained to me that this was not the first time it had happened, and in fact I would be having company. There were three Canadian girls sparing the office room with me. It was pretty ironic going from Spain, where no one spoke English, to France, where a police office spoke very well, and I would be staying with other English speakers. Before they put us in the room, we went out to eat and I noticed something interesting on the menu. Half of it looked just the same as it did in Spain. There was Paella and Catalonian Crème Brule. It was interesting to see that although Toulouse is not in Spain, it still held some reminders of its Catalonian past. The rest of the night we spent playing cards and talking.

The next day I took the earliest train and met up with Thomas. It was great to finally see him again. We were so excited to begin planning everything for the weekend. We finally decided he ought to show me the things tourists normally don’t see, so that I would be able to get a sense of how normal French people actually live. This would be a major eye opening especially since all I knew about French culture came from the major tourists stops in Paris. The first place we went to was a winery where he used to intern. We got a tour and were allowed to test a variety of wines. The most interesting thing about the winery was the huge amount of diversity it took in. The owner said he took grapes from all over Southern France and blended the right ones together to make the wine. The cool part was that there were hundreds of wineries all over that did that same exact thing. The reason for all the wineries was the climate and soil. That area of France has diverse enough soil and weather patterns that grapes are able to grow differently. All that diversity in one places makes it prime grape growing real estate, therefore most people decide to grow grapes. This influences the culture, which influences back, and gives us the cultural landscape. This is why Southern France is dotted with so many vineyards and wineries.

After the winery we went to a Rugby game. It was not a major match, but it was interesting. His own club in Agen was playing a town a few kilometers to the North. Despite the lack of importance of the game, the fans were still deeply involved. They yelled and taunted the other side, and continuously cheered on their own. Many of the younger people my age were there, and I got to see how they interacted and dressed. It was surprisingly normal. I was used the strangeness of Amsterdam, Munich and Barcelona. The people in France, however, were wearing polos and T-shirts with normal shorts and pants. It was pretty refreshing. In fact, if it they weren’t speaking French, I could have easily mistaken them for Americans. After the game, a stage was erected on the field and a concert started that lasted most of the night. I had a great time meeting all of Thomas friends and learning what French people my age did. It was a nice change from just touring the major cities. I was actually able to connect and make some friends who I got along quite well with.

After this trip I will be doing the same thing. I will leave for Italy and meet all my old friends from when I was an exchange student. I cannot wait to travel like that again.

Lava Land

For most of us, the closest we’ve ever come to a volcano was our 4th grade science fair project. We’ve read about them an seen pictures, but we are by no means familiar with the danger and the consequences of a volcanic eruption. For Santorini, the southernmost of the Cyclades Islands, the volcanic history and geography dictates their everyday lives still today.

Millions of years ago, the small island of Santorini, also called Thira, was actually three separate islands. The singular island we know today is the result of several volcanic eruptions, whose lava connected the islands together into a caldera, or crater, that was shaped like a full circle. The most famous of these eruptions occurred during the Bronze Age around 1640 B.C.. Lava consumed what used to be the Ancient Minoan civilization that previously inhabited the land. It indirectly created a tsunami on the neighboring island of Crete, also inhabited by Minoans, wiping out the entire civilization.

Santorini lies near the joint between two tectonic plates, which cause earthquakes and eruptions when they move. With one of these movements in 1628, the western half of island caved in and water filled the caldera, leaving the crescent-shaped island of today. This created a calm 400-meter deep lagoon on the western half of the caldera, which is the only place ships can come in. The western edge is a 300 meter high cliff, with layers of lava solidified creating a stratified space on which main towns could be built. A fun face is that this volcanic rock or pumice is a great insulator, keeping these island homes cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The island slopes out from this center down eastward.

The volcano is still active but is in a dormant state. The last eruption occurred in the 1950’s, but today it only emits steam and sulfur dioxide. It is one of fifteen volcanoes named a “decade volcano”. This title means that it either presents a potentially high risk or is specially connected to human history of the world.

The economy of present-day Santorini has everything to do with its volcanic history. Today it’s primary industry is tourism. People are drawn to Santorini for its beautiful white and blue cityscapes overlooking the sea. They also come to see the multi-colored beaches ranging from black to red to white. The color of the sand depends on which geologic layer of lava is exposed. This sand (lava) acts as a heat absorber making walking on the beach almost unbearable, but make the water the perfect warmth for swimming.

Much of Santorini’s specialties also directly result from the volcanic eruptions that formed the island. They sell volcanic-rock jewelry and pumice, which used to be Santorini’s main export. The volcanic ash in the soil deposits many minerals that give Santorini’s regional foods a special flavor. They are most famous for their sweet, cherry tomatoes, fava beans, white eggplants, and cucumbers. It’s location in the Aegean Sea also provide a great sea food market, most known for fish and octopus.The volcano also attracts the geologically-interested. There are daily boat tours which circle the volcano and stop at the tiny islands off of Santorini. Scuba diving and snorkeling excursions also go out to the volcano to explore the rock that remains.


If you’re looking to expand your knowledge of volcanoes or check out geological sites, or even if you simply want a relaxing beach to catch some rays. Santorini is an excellent island on which you can do all of these as well as examine the everyday consequences of an ancient historical event.

Greece: Strikes & Tourism

I arrived in Athens around 2 o’clock in the morning and although I went to sleep knowing that I had to get up in less than four hours to catch the ferry to Santorini, I was ecstatic. However, my enthusiasm for Greece was soon crushed the next morning when I saw the lines of protesters blocking the entrance to our ferry. There was a strike going on in opposition of the reforms to pensions and labor laws that have been put into place due to Greece’s current economic crisis. BBC News said “the reforms were a condition of an economic rescue package from the EU and the International Monetary Fund (IMF).” Waiting out the strike, although it was hopeless, I came to learn that these new laws had cut the workers salaries by at least 30%. MSNBC also wrote an article about the strike and it’s effect on tourists: http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/37865311

Considering that tourism brings in 20% of the nations income and these strikes have caused it to decrease by 10% (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/world/europe/10390221.stm),
I would think that ferry workers would be advocating the tourists to travel by ferries, not preventing them. With each strike, not only do the ferry businesses suffer, but also the businesses and hotels on the islands are losing money that these tourists bring in. However, I overheard a Greek woman comment about the strike from their perspective, “They’ve lost their rights, what would you do?”

Although our plans became drastically altered we decided to make the best of our situation and explore Athens. One of the major tourist attractions of Greece is the Acropolis. Being a tourist myself, the Acropolis was the first thing on my list to see while I was there. As soon as the site came into view on top of the peak of the mountain, the density of people in the area doubled. Tourists flocked to the ticket office and there were vendors selling souvenirs and places to eat all along the road.

The Acropolis is not only important to the Greeks’ culture and history, but it is important to tourists as well. As a result, the Acropolis is a major contributor to the heavy tourism in Athens and influences the Greek economy. Due to the high significance of all the buildings on Acropolis there is a restoration project that has been intact since 1975 in order to preserve the life of the buildings on the site (http://www.acropolisofathens.gr). What’s interesting about this project is that not only is the Greek State paying for it, but the European Union is also a contributor. When I read this, the first world that came to my mind was globalization.

These ancient buildings are not just for the Greeks to take pride in and recognize how important they are to their culture and history. This shows that Europe is proud to have them within the Union and that they want to share this relic with anyone who is interested. Acropolis isn’t only a part of Greek nationality; it is such an important influence in Greek tourism because it is also a symbol of human civilization. The World Heritage Center of UNESCO says it best by calling the Acropolis, “one of the most sacred symbols of global unity. It is inside you.”

Opa!

When planning our travel plans for Greece over the long weekend, I honestly didn’t know where to start. We had 4 whole days to grasp the city, and hope to not spend the rest of the little money we have left. In high school I had learned about Greece, but I really didn’t know what made it such a great place to visit. Of course I knew that it was the birthplace to many of our philosophies and history, but I honestly didn’t see what made it so special. Since I didn’t know a lot about Greece other than its historical significance, I decided to look a little more into what makes Greece, especially Athens, such a tourist attraction.

While researching I found that Athens, which is the largest city in Greece, is one of the world’s oldest cities, and is said to be over 3,400 years old. This explains its large importance to our world’s philosophies and history, which is what makes it such a desirable place to go to.

Once arriving in Greece, my group decided to visit the Acropolis because it is so historical and is a main attraction in Athens for tourists. From my research, I found that the classical era is represented throughout the city in many of the ancient monuments and art. The Acropolis, which is also called the “Sacred Rock” of Athens, is the most important site of the city and one of the most recognizable monuments of the world. The Acropolis is one of the earliest artifacts to date back to the Middle Neolithic era. Constructed by architect Mnesicles with Pentelic marble, these single limestone column-based structures rise 150 meters above sea level in the city of Athens, and can be see from all over the city. Situated in the middle of the city, you can see these structures from all over Athens.

Within my research, I found that the Acropolis is one of the most significant references of Greek history and culture. The Acropolis is a symbol of Athens and represents the artistic development in the 5^th century BC. The Acropolis is so important because this land is some of the most perfect buildings built by the most advanced civilization and even though these buildings have been studied for centuries, they are still not sure how they did it.

When researching this topic, I wanted to know more about the formation of Acropolis itself. Had it always been a large rock, or did it have a significant story behind it? In my research I found that the founder of Athens and many Greek civilizations was king Cecrops, who decided which god would protect the city. Choosing between candidates: the goddess Athena and the god Poseidon, Cecrops wanted them to prove their worth. When Poseidon presented a gift to the city he struck his trident into the rock of the Acropolis, which sprang out a well. When Athena gave her gift, she touched the ground and an olive tree grew out. This gesture to Cecrops was more beneficial to the city, and that is why the city is named after her.

The term acropolis means upper city and many of the ancient city-states in Greece were built around Acropolis where inhabitants could go as a place of refuge in any time of invasion. After it was built, the Acropolis or “highest city” in Greek, was continuously used either as a cult place or as a residential area. This is why these buildings are so significant to the city, because they are the safest and more secure place in the city. The most famous example of the Acropolis is the historical association with the several famous buildings that erect upon it. Structures like the Parthenon, statue of Phidias, and the temple of Athena Nike all made our experience so enjoyable because we were seeing so much history in on spot.

Something that I found very interesting was that the Romans conquered Greece in 2^nd century BC and many of these structures were looted. Statues and other works of art were taken back to Rome and Acropolis had to be rebuilt. This could be one of the reasons why the structures are so choppy looking today.

When walking around the city of Athens, I noticed that it wasn’t a very picturesque city; in fact, it is Athens’s pollution that has done the most harm to the Acropolis site. I found this very interesting because for being so high up on the mountain, the limestones are still affected by the city.

I am really glad that my group decided to visit this site because I don’t think that I would have gone without their enthusiasm about it. Our visit was enjoyable because it allowed us to see all of the buildings lit by the sun and all of the gardens flowers in bloom. Known for getting hot in the summer, getting to the Acropolis was a pleasant walk and we got to enjoy the little cafés and restaurants that aligned the streets heading toward the Acropolis. It was a great visit and I have lots of pictures to show family and friends back home of how much history and culture I absorbed during my stay in Greece.

Ancient to Modern Greece in One Day

I landed in Athens at 1am with news that our ferry to Santorini in the morning was canceled because of a strike. At the time, I thought it was a lie or a rumor because we had heard about it at the baggage claim in Athens huge new airport that was built for the Olympics just 6 years ago. We took a bus to the port of Piraeus and slept for a total of 2 hours before we left to catch our ferry to Santorini. Once we got to the port, there was a sense of anger and confusion coming from the many tourists, who according to Reuters, make up 18% of Greece’s GDP, and residents alike. The strike is in response to the bailout package to tallying 110 billion Euros for the ailing nation. To receive the package, wages had to be cut all around the nation. This is Turing Greece into a battleground against the government by means of strike and violence. (http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE65M1R520100623). After all the confusion and anger I experienced in my first day in Greece, we rearranged our plans to see the acropolis that day, then leave for Santorini in the morning.
After the long walk up stairs, slippery rocks and paths, I was standing on some of the oldest remains left on the soil in the world. I took a metro train past souvenir shops to see it. I am still memorized to this day. The acropolis was a place used for resident refuge in case of invasion. This is the reason why all the temples and memorials were at the top of the city. The Parthenon was built in the 5th century BC as a monument to the political and cultural achievements in Athens (http://www.athensguide.com/acropolis.html). When the Romans conquered Greece in the 2nd century BC, many of the sanctuaries were looted. Statues and other works of art were taken back to Rome from Olympia and Delphi for example, but the Acropolis was pretty much left alone. Today, restoration projects are taking place all over the ancient city, including the Parthenon and the Agora. The restorations have not stopped the tourists from swarming in, but the economy of Greece has as tourist dollars have stopped flowing through and flights into Athens have been cut.
It is easy to see how everything in Greece is so laid back. As learned in Geography, many of the “Mediterranean Nations” tend to be more laid back, like Spain and southern Italy. Even our ferry back into Piraeus was over 3 hours late. The crewmember told me this was “normal.” I thought about this when taking the train back into Luxembourg from Frankfurt International Airport when the train arrived at 4:30 on the dot. The two countries are totally different economically, geographically, and by climate. Although different, they both share the same currency, and are subject to declines and improvements in the economies of every nation in the zone.
The recent events in Greece, the European Union, and beyond have stretched this country as far as it can go. The ferry strike that I witnessed and was affected by not only painted an image of “laziness” and “whiners” in my head about the Greek people, but also confirmed my decision not to visit Greece when in such a horrible crisis. The acropolis, once the “center of civilization,” now overlooks a city that is crumbling internally, like the Parthenon. The ancient city that brings millions to Athens every year is a reminder of the greatness Greece had on the world. The nation today depends on the EU and the generosity from nations like Germany to survive.
There is another strike planned for tomorrow (June 29) again to respond to “pension and labor reforms” that is accepted to be worse than the one last week. The continued anger from both tourists who help the ailing economy and the residents alike only build on the reality that Greece is in trouble and will not recover anytime soon. Like the acropolis that looks down on a city overcome by poverty, unemployment and economic woes, a major renovation from the inside out will be needed to ensure the survival of the ancient lands.

The Finnish Mid-Summer

When I traveled to Helsinki to see my friend, Petteri, during the last weekend of June, I knew that my trip would not be defined by staying only in Finland’s capital. To an outsider, it might seem that Helsinki would be busy and exciting in late June. This is definitely not the case. The city is a ghost town because it is the Finnish Mid-Summer holiday. This is when residents of urban places leave to spend their free time at summer cottages away from home. After I landed, my friend’s wife, Hanna, and another couple picked me up for a long drive north to a small town called Mikkeli (Google maps). It is in a part of Finland where countless lakes and forests dominate the landscape. The lakes are a major part of Finland’s natural beauty and the country contains thousands of them, carved out by glaciers that covered Northern Europe during the Ice Age (Finland’s lakes).



Following a four and a half hour drive, we met Petteri at the local shopping center, and after stocking up on four carts full of food and drinks, we drove 15 kilometers outside of town till we arrived at the summer cottage. The plot was situated among white birches and pine trees next to a beautiful lake, complete with a wood-burning Finnish sauna, an outdoor toilet, two guest cottages, and a dock reaching into the lake. To complete the summer cottage was a brick oven, well-manicured landscape, and just enough modernity to not sacrifice the rustic atmosphere. After two more couples joined us, we unpacked everything and soon brought out the champagne to toast the beginning of the Mid-Summer (Midsummer Festival). And what a great Mid-Summer it would be! The weather was almost perfect and promised to give us an unusually warm holiday weekend!



Our weekend was full of feasting, drinking, and taking saunas (Finnish sauna); where after going to the sauna and getting very hot, the best way to cool off was to rush down to the dock and jump into the cold water in the lake. This ritual was repeated multiple times each day. And, of course, there was the food! The men would stay busy keeping the fires lit at the brick oven and sauna, all the while grilling meat over the flames; everything from chicken and pork to delicious salmon. Meanwhile, the women in the group would provide eating utensils, make salads, side dishes, and desserts. All nine of us would have three big meals each day with beers and long drinks (drinks with gin and grapefruit soda) in between (Long Drinks).



All of the celebrating at this time of year in Finland is not without a purpose. It represents the traditions of welcoming the Summer Solstice in Finnish pagan culture and is also the beginning of the longest day of the year (About Summer Solstice). The sun sets late and rises early during this part of the season, with the sky only becoming partially dark after midnight for a few hours before the sunlight returns to brighten everything again. Additionally, the practice of Finnish people spending this holiday at summer cottages is symbolic of a return to nature, tranquility, and a slower pace of living. This is a sharp contrast to life lived in Helsinki or other cities where days are more fast paced and stressful.



A major event of the Mid-summer weekend was the lighting of the bonfire at midnight, traditionally meant to scare off evil spirits, but now more for the purpose of enjoyment. Petteri and his friend, Jukka (pronounced “You-ka”), built a raft out of available timber and then assembled a large stack of wood on the raft’s platform. When it became a little darker, both men took a row boat with the raft in tow into the lake and anchored it. They then used a torch to set the raft aflame and rowed back to be with the group and watch it burn. It was a beautiful sight that I’ve never before seen and really gave me a rare glimpse into this long celebrated holiday in Finland that is such a happy time of year for Finnish people.

After the weekend, I reflected on all the fun I had with Petteri, his wife, and friends; plus, how lucky I was to take part. This is a tradition in Finland that few outsiders would ever experience or know. At the same time, I also came closer to understanding how a country like Finland maintains its culture and heritage, one that pre-dates Christianity and the EU, by passing down summer cottages through the generations in Finnish families. The Mid-Summer holiday is a unique aspect of this country that allows its people to return to their cultural roots and take a well deserved break from modern society that exists in Finland today.

References
1.) Google Maps: http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&q=Mikkeli+map&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Mikkeli,+Finland&ei=hbgoTLOMIIuMOKPGqPwC&ved=0CBgQ8gEwAA&z=8
2.) Finland’s lakes: http://www.ymparisto.fi/default.asp?node=12335&lan=en
3.) Midsummer Festival: http://www.squidoo.com/midsummer_festival
4.) Finnish sauna: http://www.cankar.org/sauna/index.html
5.) Long Drinks: http://www.hartwall.fi/en/Products/Drinks/Long-drinks/
6.) About Summer Solstice: http://www.saima-park.org/activities/cultural/about_summer_solstice.htm