Tuesday 29 June 2010

Greece's Identity: A historical meeting point of Europe and the Mediterranean

The Grecian identity is strongly tied to its history and to its distinct juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern. Greece has invested a lot in updating and tidying up their country and those that live permanently among the brilliant blue waters and ancient ruins are 93% ethnic Greek and 98% Greek Orthodox. This homogeneity makes for a very strong feeling of tradition and culture within the country both the mainland and on the Islands. Greeks continue to unite under their language Ellinika which uses the Greek alphabet, the oldest in the world. While luckily most words are translated into English as the Greek spelling can be very hard to decipher. As a society that has long seen traders and different leaders they are proud to be very open to visitors and will work to help bridge the language gap with a high portion speaking English.
Athens from the Acropolis

The food in Greece especially reflects their connection to the sea, and has a very Mediterranean style. This was the first location we traveled to during MUDEC that we really ate only authentic national dishes. They were extremely easy to find at really good prices. We would get a full dinner with drink for around ten euros. Our first night in Athens we ate at a rooftop restaurant outside at the base of the Temple of Nike, lit up and overlooking the city. The man that flagged our friends down on the street and called down the road for Marilyn and I until we appeared, was apparently also a musician at the restaurant. Greek women and even some men would spontaneously get up from their dinner and join the music for a traditional dance. It was really neat to see people celebrating tradition on their own accord, we usually witness tradition in a tourist or formal setting, this type of banal nationalism keeps their heritage alive in a sea of tourism.


We spent most of our time on the Island of Santorini, an Aegean jewel fabled to be the lost city of Atlantis, because of its history of being buried in volcanic ash. It has exceptionally fertile ground from the former eruptions and across the caldera you can still see the large active volcano that is the panoramic focal point for its renowned red sunsets. The geographical makeup has formed the city and you can look out across the sea from the winding cobble stone paths perched precariously along cliffs and lining the sunwashed cliff sunken houses stacked high above the beach. They are famous for the vegetables grown here such as tomatoes, olives and the unique white eggplant. The farmers have historically inhabited the upper reaches and now a days with the tourist industry and business of the coast there are also fisherman along the edges. This location allows for wonderful seafood at local prices, served still in its original form which took some getting used to for me! I usually prefer not to have my food stare me in the eye or high five me, even if it is on accident.
We really enjoyed the small feel of Perissa the town we stayed on in Santorini we would often run into tourists and workers from previous days who would greet us with friendly questions on how our excursions had played out. The pressure of the tourism business also means that many people recommend you to friends the man that sells ferry tickets to his friend that has a bar or our hotelier to her friend that rents atv's etc.
Our biggest mishap with the Sea and tourism came on the day we initially tried to travel out to Santorini from the port of Piraeus. Weary from 12 hours of travel the night before at 7 am we were already dreading the 8 hour ferry trip. We learned after many people avoiding the question that there was a solid strike by port workers that would last for the whole day. I think the morning was best described by the associated press, “Greek passengers booed strikers chanting slogans and blocking ferry gangplanks, while foreign tourists sat despondently on their suitcases.” While we chalked up the strikes to their more active civil unrest, it also showed how their economy is affected through the international programs being used to help pull them out of debt. This type of strike poses a real threat to Greece's economy with 1 in 5 jobs being in tourism many islands are very dependent on the summer tourists to keep their businesses afloat (AP). I found it interesting that according to labournet.net the IDC or International Dockworkers' Council has established a front against the European directive and over 90 ports have protested similar rights violations to the profession of dockworkers so in a way they have also shown unity through this strike. I found it interesting to see the ways that Greece acts as a bridge for Mediterranean states to the greater European population and how it continues to work to find its niche.

Santorini
To read more about the port and economic identity:
Tourists stranded by Greek strike in port of Piraeus:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/world/europe/10390221.stm

Greece: Five Days of Strikes in Last Two Weeks
Http://www.labournet.net/docks2/0506/greece3.htm


Strikers Disrupt Ferries in Main Greek Port:
www.goog.com/hostednews/ap/articleALeqM5iXUJvBknZ

For more on Greek Identity:
“Greece and the Mediterranean: Shifting Foreign Policy”- Dimitris Xenakis

Santorini Eruption and the Legend of Atlantis:
www.geology.sdsu.edu/how_volcanoes_work/santorini.html

Greece's economic woes are secondary to its crisis of Identity:
www.irishtimes.com/newspaper0122/12242628/world/2010/

Monday 28 June 2010

Non Touristy Tourism

One of the most relaxing weekend trips I have taken so far was to Southern France. Right after we all finished with our Spain study tour, I immediately took the train to Agen. The whole purpose of this trip was to visit my old exchange student Thomas Drape. It had been almost two years since I last saw him, and I could hardly wait for a reunion. The trip started smoothly enough, but once I got to Bordeaux for a layover, I missed the connecting train and was told there was not another one until the morning. The police officer was very nice, however, and let me spend the night in his office. He explained to me that this was not the first time it had happened, and in fact I would be having company. There were three Canadian girls sparing the office room with me. It was pretty ironic going from Spain, where no one spoke English, to France, where a police office spoke very well, and I would be staying with other English speakers. Before they put us in the room, we went out to eat and I noticed something interesting on the menu. Half of it looked just the same as it did in Spain. There was Paella and Catalonian Crème Brule. It was interesting to see that although Toulouse is not in Spain, it still held some reminders of its Catalonian past. The rest of the night we spent playing cards and talking.

The next day I took the earliest train and met up with Thomas. It was great to finally see him again. We were so excited to begin planning everything for the weekend. We finally decided he ought to show me the things tourists normally don’t see, so that I would be able to get a sense of how normal French people actually live. This would be a major eye opening especially since all I knew about French culture came from the major tourists stops in Paris. The first place we went to was a winery where he used to intern. We got a tour and were allowed to test a variety of wines. The most interesting thing about the winery was the huge amount of diversity it took in. The owner said he took grapes from all over Southern France and blended the right ones together to make the wine. The cool part was that there were hundreds of wineries all over that did that same exact thing. The reason for all the wineries was the climate and soil. That area of France has diverse enough soil and weather patterns that grapes are able to grow differently. All that diversity in one places makes it prime grape growing real estate, therefore most people decide to grow grapes. This influences the culture, which influences back, and gives us the cultural landscape. This is why Southern France is dotted with so many vineyards and wineries.

After the winery we went to a Rugby game. It was not a major match, but it was interesting. His own club in Agen was playing a town a few kilometers to the North. Despite the lack of importance of the game, the fans were still deeply involved. They yelled and taunted the other side, and continuously cheered on their own. Many of the younger people my age were there, and I got to see how they interacted and dressed. It was surprisingly normal. I was used the strangeness of Amsterdam, Munich and Barcelona. The people in France, however, were wearing polos and T-shirts with normal shorts and pants. It was pretty refreshing. In fact, if it they weren’t speaking French, I could have easily mistaken them for Americans. After the game, a stage was erected on the field and a concert started that lasted most of the night. I had a great time meeting all of Thomas friends and learning what French people my age did. It was a nice change from just touring the major cities. I was actually able to connect and make some friends who I got along quite well with.

After this trip I will be doing the same thing. I will leave for Italy and meet all my old friends from when I was an exchange student. I cannot wait to travel like that again.

Lava Land


For most of us, the closest we’ve ever come to a volcano was our 4th grade science fair project. We’ve read about them an seen pictures, but we are by no means familiar with the danger and the consequences of a volcanic eruption. For Santorini, the southernmost of the Cyclades Islands, the volcanic history and geography dictates their everyday lives still today.

Millions of years ago, the small island of Santorini, also called Thira, was actually three separate islands. The singular island we know today is the result of several volcanic eruptions, whose lava connected the islands together into a caldera, or crater, that was shaped like a full circle. The most famous of these eruptions occurred during the Bronze Age around 1640 B.C.. Lava consumed what used to be the Ancient Minoan civilization that previously inhabited the land. It indirectly created a tsunami on the neighboring island of Crete, also inhabited by Minoans, wiping out the entire civilization.

Santorini lies near the joint between two tectonic plates, which cause earthquakes and eruptions when they move. With one of these movements in 1628, the western half of island caved in and water filled the caldera, leaving the crescent-shaped island of today. This created a calm 400-meter deep lagoon on the western half of the caldera, which is the only place ships can come in. The western edge is a 300 meter high cliff, with layers of lava solidified creating a stratified space on which main towns could be built. A fun face is that this volcanic rock or pumice is a great insulator, keeping these island homes cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The island slopes out from this center down eastward.

The volcano is still active but is in a dormant state. The last eruption occurred in the 1950’s, but today it only emits steam and sulfur dioxide. It is one of fifteen volcanoes named a “decade volcano”. This title means that it either presents a potentially high risk or is specially connected to human history of the world.
The economy of present-day Santorini has everything to do with its volcanic history. Today it’s primary industry is tourism. People are drawn to Santorini for its beautiful white and blue cityscapes overlooking the sea. They also come to see the multi-colored beaches ranging from black to red to white. The color of the sand depends on which geologic layer of lava is exposed. This sand (lava) acts as a heat absorber making walking on the beach almost unbearable, but make the water the perfect warmth for swimming.

Much of Santorini’s specialties also directly result from the volcanic eruptions that formed the island. They sell volcanic-rock jewelry and pumice, which used to be Santorini’s main export. The volcanic ash in the soil deposits many minerals that give Santorini’s regional foods a special flavor. They are most famous for their sweet, cherry tomatoes, fava beans, white eggplants, and cucumbers. It’s location in the Aegean Sea also provide a great sea food market, most known for fish and octopus.The volcano also attracts the geologically-interested. There are daily boat tours which circle the volcano and stop at the tiny islands off of Santorini. Scuba diving and snorkeling excursions also go out to the volcano to explore the rock that remains.


If you’re looking to expand your knowledge of volcanoes or check out geological sites, or even if you simply want a relaxing beach to catch some rays. Santorini is an excellent island on which you can do all of these as well as examine the everyday consequences of an ancient historical event.

Greece: Strikes & Tourism



I arrived in Athens around 2 o’clock in the morning and although I went to sleep knowing that I had to get up in less than four hours to catch the ferry to Santorini, I was ecstatic. However, my enthusiasm for Greece was soon crushed the next morning when I saw the lines of protesters blocking the entrance to our ferry. There was a strike going on in opposition of the reforms to pensions and labor laws that have been put into place due to Greece’s current economic crisis. BBC News said “the reforms were a condition of an economic rescue package from the EU and the International Monetary Fund (IMF).” Waiting out the strike, although it was hopeless, I came to learn that these new laws had cut the workers salaries by at least 30%. MSNBC also wrote an article about the strike and it’s effect on tourists: http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/37865311

Considering that tourism brings in 20% of the nations income and these strikes have caused it to decrease by 10% (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/world/europe/10390221.stm),
I would think that ferry workers would be advocating the tourists to travel by ferries, not preventing them. With each strike, not only do the ferry businesses suffer, but also the businesses and hotels on the islands are losing money that these tourists bring in. However, I overheard a Greek woman comment about the strike from their perspective, “They’ve lost their rights, what would you do?”

Although our plans became drastically altered we decided to make the best of our situation and explore Athens. One of the major tourist attractions of Greece is the Acropolis. Being a tourist myself, the Acropolis was the first thing on my list to see while I was there. As soon as the site came into view on top of the peak of the mountain, the density of people in the area doubled. Tourists flocked to the ticket office and there were vendors selling souvenirs and places to eat all along the road.

The Acropolis is not only important to the Greeks’ culture and history, but it is important to tourists as well. As a result, the Acropolis is a major contributor to the heavy tourism in Athens and influences the Greek economy. Due to the high significance of all the buildings on Acropolis there is a restoration project that has been intact since 1975 in order to preserve the life of the buildings on the site (http://www.acropolisofathens.gr). What’s interesting about this project is that not only is the Greek State paying for it, but the European Union is also a contributor. When I read this, the first world that came to my mind was globalization.

These ancient buildings are not just for the Greeks to take pride in and recognize how important they are to their culture and history. This shows that Europe is proud to have them within the Union and that they want to share this relic with anyone who is interested. Acropolis isn’t only a part of Greek nationality; it is such an important influence in Greek tourism because it is also a symbol of human civilization. The World Heritage Center of UNESCO says it best by calling the Acropolis, “one of the most sacred symbols of global unity. It is inside you.”

Opa!


When planning our travel plans for Greece over the long weekend, I honestly didn’t know where to start. We had 4 whole days to grasp the city, and hope to not spend the rest of the little money we have left. In high school I had learned about Greece, but I really didn’t know what made it such a great place to visit. Of course I knew that it was the birthplace to many of our philosophies and history, but I honestly didn’t see what made it so special. Since I didn’t know a lot about Greece other than its historical significance, I decided to look a little more into what makes Greece, especially Athens, such a tourist attraction.

While researching I found that Athens, which is the largest city in Greece, is one of the world’s oldest cities, and is said to be over 3,400 years old. This explains its large importance to our world’s philosophies and history, which is what makes it such a desirable place to go to.

Once arriving in Greece, my group decided to visit the Acropolis because it is so historical and is a main attraction in Athens for tourists. From my research, I found that the classical era is represented throughout the city in many of the ancient monuments and art. The Acropolis, which is also called the “Sacred Rock” of Athens, is the most important site of the city and one of the most recognizable monuments of the world. The Acropolis is one of the earliest artifacts to date back to the Middle Neolithic era. Constructed by architect Mnesicles with Pentelic marble, these single limestone column-based structures rise 150 meters above sea level in the city of Athens, and can be see from all over the city. Situated in the middle of the city, you can see these structures from all over Athens.

Within my research, I found that the Acropolis is one of the most significant references of Greek history and culture. The Acropolis is a symbol of Athens and represents the artistic development in the 5th century BC. The Acropolis is so important because this land is some of the most perfect buildings built by the most advanced civilization and even though these buildings have been studied for centuries, they are still not sure how they did it.

When researching this topic, I wanted to know more about the formation of Acropolis itself. Had it always been a large rock, or did it have a significant story behind it? In my research I found that the founder of Athens and many Greek civilizations was king Cecrops, who decided which god would protect the city. Choosing between candidates: the goddess Athena and the god Poseidon, Cecrops wanted them to prove their worth. When Poseidon presented a gift to the city he struck his trident into the rock of the Acropolis, which sprang out a well. When Athena gave her gift, she touched the ground and an olive tree grew out. This gesture to Cecrops was more beneficial to the city, and that is why the city is named after her.

The term acropolis means upper city and many of the ancient city-states in Greece were built around Acropolis where inhabitants could go as a place of refuge in any time of invasion. After it was built, the Acropolis or “highest city” in Greek, was continuously used either as a cult place or as a residential area. This is why these buildings are so significant to the city, because they are the safest and more secure place in the city. The most famous example of the Acropolis is the historical association with the several famous buildings that erect upon it. Structures like the Parthenon, statue of Phidias, and the temple of Athena Nike all made our experience so enjoyable because we were seeing so much history in on spot.

Something that I found very interesting was that the Romans conquered Greece in 2nd century BC and many of these structures were looted. Statues and other works of art were taken back to Rome and Acropolis had to be rebuilt. This could be one of the reasons why the structures are so choppy looking today.

When walking around the city of Athens, I noticed that it wasn’t a very picturesque city; in fact, it is Athens’s pollution that has done the most harm to the Acropolis site. I found this very interesting because for being so high up on the mountain, the limestones are still affected by the city.

I am really glad that my group decided to visit this site because I don’t think that I would have gone without their enthusiasm about it. Our visit was enjoyable because it allowed us to see all of the buildings lit by the sun and all of the gardens flowers in bloom. Known for getting hot in the summer, getting to the Acropolis was a pleasant walk and we got to enjoy the little cafés and restaurants that aligned the streets heading toward the Acropolis. It was a great visit and I have lots of pictures to show family and friends back home of how much history and culture I absorbed during my stay in Greece.

Ancient to Modern Greece in One Day






I landed in Athens at 1am with news that our ferry to Santorini in the morning was canceled because of a strike. At the time, I thought it was a lie or a rumor because we had heard about it at the baggage claim in Athens huge new airport that was built for the Olympics just 6 years ago. We took a bus to the port of Piraeus and slept for a total of 2 hours before we left to catch our ferry to Santorini. Once we got to the port, there was a sense of anger and confusion coming from the many tourists, who according to Reuters, make up 18% of Greece’s GDP, and residents alike. The strike is in response to the bailout package to tallying 110 billion Euros for the ailing nation. To receive the package, wages had to be cut all around the nation. This is Turing Greece into a battleground against the government by means of strike and violence. (http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE65M1R520100623). After all the confusion and anger I experienced in my first day in Greece, we rearranged our plans to see the acropolis that day, then leave for Santorini in the morning.
After the long walk up stairs, slippery rocks and paths, I was standing on some of the oldest remains left on the soil in the world. I took a metro train past souvenir shops to see it. I am still memorized to this day. The acropolis was a place used for resident refuge in case of invasion. This is the reason why all the temples and memorials were at the top of the city. The Parthenon was built in the 5th century BC as a monument to the political and cultural achievements in Athens (http://www.athensguide.com/acropolis.html). When the Romans conquered Greece in the 2nd century BC, many of the sanctuaries were looted. Statues and other works of art were taken back to Rome from Olympia and Delphi for example, but the Acropolis was pretty much left alone. Today, restoration projects are taking place all over the ancient city, including the Parthenon and the Agora. The restorations have not stopped the tourists from swarming in, but the economy of Greece has as tourist dollars have stopped flowing through and flights into Athens have been cut.
It is easy to see how everything in Greece is so laid back. As learned in Geography, many of the “Mediterranean Nations” tend to be more laid back, like Spain and southern Italy. Even our ferry back into Piraeus was over 3 hours late. The crewmember told me this was “normal.” I thought about this when taking the train back into Luxembourg from Frankfurt International Airport when the train arrived at 4:30 on the dot. The two countries are totally different economically, geographically, and by climate. Although different, they both share the same currency, and are subject to declines and improvements in the economies of every nation in the zone.
The recent events in Greece, the European Union, and beyond have stretched this country as far as it can go. The ferry strike that I witnessed and was affected by not only painted an image of “laziness” and “whiners” in my head about the Greek people, but also confirmed my decision not to visit Greece when in such a horrible crisis. The acropolis, once the “center of civilization,” now overlooks a city that is crumbling internally, like the Parthenon. The ancient city that brings millions to Athens every year is a reminder of the greatness Greece had on the world. The nation today depends on the EU and the generosity from nations like Germany to survive.
There is another strike planned for tomorrow (June 29) again to respond to “pension and labor reforms” that is accepted to be worse than the one last week. The continued anger from both tourists who help the ailing economy and the residents alike only build on the reality that Greece is in trouble and will not recover anytime soon. Like the acropolis that looks down on a city overcome by poverty, unemployment and economic woes, a major renovation from the inside out will be needed to ensure the survival of the ancient lands.

The Finnish Mid-Summer



When I traveled to Helsinki to see my friend, Petteri, during the last weekend of June, I knew that my trip would not be defined by staying only in Finland’s capital. To an outsider, it might seem that Helsinki would be busy and exciting in late June. This is definitely not the case. The city is a ghost town because it is the Finnish Mid-Summer holiday. This is when residents of urban places leave to spend their free time at summer cottages away from home. After I landed, my friend’s wife, Hanna, and another couple picked me up for a long drive north to a small town called Mikkeli (Google maps). It is in a part of Finland where countless lakes and forests dominate the landscape. The lakes are a major part of Finland’s natural beauty and the country contains thousands of them, carved out by glaciers that covered Northern Europe during the Ice Age (Finland’s lakes).



Following a four and a half hour drive, we met Petteri at the local shopping center, and after stocking up on four carts full of food and drinks, we drove 15 kilometers outside of town till we arrived at the summer cottage. The plot was situated among white birches and pine trees next to a beautiful lake, complete with a wood-burning Finnish sauna, an outdoor toilet, two guest cottages, and a dock reaching into the lake. To complete the summer cottage was a brick oven, well-manicured landscape, and just enough modernity to not sacrifice the rustic atmosphere. After two more couples joined us, we unpacked everything and soon brought out the champagne to toast the beginning of the Mid-Summer (Midsummer Festival). And what a great Mid-Summer it would be! The weather was almost perfect and promised to give us an unusually warm holiday weekend!



Our weekend was full of feasting, drinking, and taking saunas (Finnish sauna); where after going to the sauna and getting very hot, the best way to cool off was to rush down to the dock and jump into the cold water in the lake. This ritual was repeated multiple times each day. And, of course, there was the food! The men would stay busy keeping the fires lit at the brick oven and sauna, all the while grilling meat over the flames; everything from chicken and pork to delicious salmon. Meanwhile, the women in the group would provide eating utensils, make salads, side dishes, and desserts. All nine of us would have three big meals each day with beers and long drinks (drinks with gin and grapefruit soda) in between (Long Drinks).



All of the celebrating at this time of year in Finland is not without a purpose. It represents the traditions of welcoming the Summer Solstice in Finnish pagan culture and is also the beginning of the longest day of the year (About Summer Solstice). The sun sets late and rises early during this part of the season, with the sky only becoming partially dark after midnight for a few hours before the sunlight returns to brighten everything again. Additionally, the practice of Finnish people spending this holiday at summer cottages is symbolic of a return to nature, tranquility, and a slower pace of living. This is a sharp contrast to life lived in Helsinki or other cities where days are more fast paced and stressful.



A major event of the Mid-summer weekend was the lighting of the bonfire at midnight, traditionally meant to scare off evil spirits, but now more for the purpose of enjoyment. Petteri and his friend, Jukka (pronounced “You-ka”), built a raft out of available timber and then assembled a large stack of wood on the raft’s platform. When it became a little darker, both men took a row boat with the raft in tow into the lake and anchored it. They then used a torch to set the raft aflame and rowed back to be with the group and watch it burn. It was a beautiful sight that I’ve never before seen and really gave me a rare glimpse into this long celebrated holiday in Finland that is such a happy time of year for Finnish people.

After the weekend, I reflected on all the fun I had with Petteri, his wife, and friends; plus, how lucky I was to take part. This is a tradition in Finland that few outsiders would ever experience or know. At the same time, I also came closer to understanding how a country like Finland maintains its culture and heritage, one that pre-dates Christianity and the EU, by passing down summer cottages through the generations in Finnish families. The Mid-Summer holiday is a unique aspect of this country that allows its people to return to their cultural roots and take a well deserved break from modern society that exists in Finland today.

References
1.) Google Maps: http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&q=Mikkeli+map&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Mikkeli,+Finland&ei=hbgoTLOMIIuMOKPGqPwC&ved=0CBgQ8gEwAA&z=8
2.) Finland’s lakes: http://www.ymparisto.fi/default.asp?node=12335&lan=en
3.) Midsummer Festival: http://www.squidoo.com/midsummer_festival
4.) Finnish sauna: http://www.cankar.org/sauna/index.html
5.) Long Drinks: http://www.hartwall.fi/en/Products/Drinks/Long-drinks/
6.) About Summer Solstice: http://www.saima-park.org/activities/cultural/about_summer_solstice.htm

Sunday 27 June 2010

Experiencing Beauty Amidst Conflict

After a long train to Frankfurt and flight to Athens, my friends and I arrived exhausted at six in the morning to the port, Paereus, ready to explore the island, Santorini and all of its beauty. However, arriving to the port we realized that boarding the high speed ferry to Santorini may not be an option. A line of about 20 protestors blocked the ramp to the ferry and despite the hundreds of travelers that held their tickets in hand and waited to board the ferry, the protestors successfully prevented any ferries from leaving the port that day. The groups of protestors were composed of men and women of all ages and they held signs and chanted rhythmically in Greek. At times, heated verbal and physical conflict would erupt between locals and protestors. My friends and I decided to tour Athens for the day and return to the port in the morning. Shouts could be heardfrom our hostel throughout the day and the protest lasted fifteen hours at the port.

Strikes in Athens were sparked by an announcement made months ago by the Greek Prime Minister, George Papandrea. His announcement included the new measures that he and his government issued to cut Greece's deficit and "abide by the conditions of joint EU IMF bailout". (http://www.petergreenberg.com/2010/05/05/deadly-riots-strike-in-greece-athens-in-chaos/) Thus, Greece would potentially need to be aided outside of the European union or in addition to the International Monetary fund as opposed to receiving aid only internally. According to news reports, the decisions

made by the Prime Minister has resulted in significant wage cuts along with a three-year pension freeze for all public workers along with increased taxation on select products. Peter Green discusses the o

verall sentiment of Athens workers in his report on the strikes, suggesting that "ordinary people are being made to pay for the crisis." Furthermore, the European Union is experiencing great pressure as a result of the policies concerning cohesion and convergence that now relate specifically to Greece's current state.

A great paradox unfolds from all of the politics and regional and international tension that is associated with the unrest in Athens. Greek Prime Minister stated an increase in the tourism industry as one of his goals for the country. However, the British Foreign office issued a travel warning to Britons and furthermore, three bank employees

have been killed in Athens and four buildin

gs were burnt to the ground in this capital city of Greece. Thus, an increasing wariness of traveling to Greece has largely hurt its tourist industry and thus its economy, making the effort of the strikers a contribution to the further disintegrating economy of Greece.

IMF Statement regarding Greece

BBC Question & Answer regarding Greece in Debt and its future

After arriving safely to Santorini I literally caught my breath stepping off of the ferry as I was surrounded by sparkling blue water and whitewashed houses built into the hillsides. The entire weekend

felt like a dream and the scenery was so surreal I honestly felt like I was I was watching a movie or

someone else's life. Tourism in Greece makes up 17-18% of the country's GDP and it employs more than 850,000 people. (Informational page about the geography of Santorini) Each delicious seafood restaurant where we ate offered menus that were only listed in Greek and in English. Road signs were listed in English and ATM banks also only offered services in Greek and

in English. It was immediately clear that Santorini directed its tourist services to English speaking travelers. While in Santorini, my friends and I had the time of our lives. We rented ATVs to travel around the island and saw the different beaches that had different colors of sand as a result of the volcano, we rode donkeys up a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean, watched the most famous sunset in the world at Oia and ate delicious fresh seafood and Greek salad.


I kept thinking to myself, while in Santorini, about the strikes and their devastating effects on the Greek economy. It seems like such an immense tragedy given that the natural geography of the country attracts its tourists and that the country

along with the European Union are struggling right now due to its current political and economic state. Witnessing the strikes in Athens firsthand and then experiencing all of the wonders that Greece has to offer, truly opened my eyes to how interconnected Euro-Zone countries essentially are, despite their cultural, economic and geographical differences.

Changing Tourism at Buckingham Palace


I listened carefully as I could hear drums beating from beyond the mall. The mass crowds of peoples’ ears pointed upwards and the loud roar from the crowd emerged into quiet whispers. The drumming continued to get louder and louder, and finally I could see the Queen’s Guard contingent slowly walking from St. James’s Palace, off The Mall on Malborough Road beating their drums and walking as though they were mannequin like figures with stern expressions across their faces. Over the large crowds of people surrounding the railings at the Victoria Monument, I caught a glimpse of the large bearskin hats that are the stereotypical feature of the British guard. As I stood in front of Buckingham Palace I was awestruck at its majesty and eagerly waited the changing of the guard, one of the greatest traditions of England’s royalty. As the daily ceremony commenced, I could not help but notice the reverence of the assembly and the countless faces amongst us. So many people had come to witness this traditional English ceremony and it made me think about how England’s historical past had become a tourist attraction.

The procedure of the ceremony begins at St. James’s Palace, situated off of The Mall in Marlborough Road. A detachment of the ‘Old Guard’ forms up there in Friary Court at 11:00 am for an inspection by the Captain of The Queen’s Guard. This contingent then makes its way down The Mall towards Buckingham Palace at approximately 11:15 am preceded by a Regimental Band or Corps of Drums. The other half of the Old Guard is already on duty at Buckingham Palace and is inspected while awaiting the arrival of the St. James’s Palace detachment. The St. James’s detachment enters the Palace Forecourt through the South Center Gate and takes up position beside the Buckingham Palace detachment on the left hand side of the forecourt. Now complete, the Old Guard awaits the arrival of the incoming ‘New Guard’ from Wellington Barracks situated at the Buckingham Palace end of Birdcage Walk. (http://www.trooping-the-colour.co.uk/mounting/index.htm)

The changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, or more formerly known as Guard Mounting, is a popular London tourist attraction, close to the main London hotels, drawing thousands of visitors to Buckingham Palace to watch. The changing of the guard takes place in the courtyard of Buckingham Palace and is free to anyone to watch daily. The easy access to the ceremony makes it a desirable for London visitors and is also conveniently affordable. Tourist attractions like the changing of the guard mark a new era of tourism in the last decade of the 20th century (Ostergren and Rice, Ch. 11).

Traditional mass tourism in Europe was always to beaches or the mountains, yet a new variety of tourism has emerged. This new abundance in traveling stems from an emerging consumer preference for something different then traditional packaged European tourism. The demand today is more flexible travel arrangements and is being met by revolutionary changes in European transportation. As I traveled to London, I was able to take an easy Jet that is advertised for 69 euro’s roundtrip. The implementation of trains, buses, and advanced infrastructure also allow easily accessible transportation that caters to those wanting to see the main attractions of a city. Today, the preservation of historical buildings and landscapes is a relatively recent phenomenon. Upholding and maintaining these historical buildings and monuments allows for cities to develop these sites as main tourist attractions. As I visited Buckingham Palace and witness the Mounting of the Guard, I could see the historic nationalism present in the royal family and the traditional meaning of the ceremony, but the large crowds of people allowed me to witness the affects of changing tourism.

Monday 21 June 2010

Vienna: Horses, Horses and More Horses







In Vienna, Austria, I went to the Spanish Riding School which has been a Mecca for riders all around the world. For me it was no different, from the time I walked down the street I could immediately pick out the magnificent building that has housed centuries of tradition and passion for horses. It is a spectacular building complete with ornate decoration bursting out at every corner. The building is sectioned off into a series of shops and a restaurant which is for the public to use at any time and then there is the actual arena where spectators are strictly prohibited unless there is a performance or a tour taking place, otherwise it is off limits. Across the street in a Renaissance building, there are the stables for the famous Lipizzaner stallions.

The Spanish Riding School brought together three countries, Spain, France, and Austria. Lipizzaners, the only breed of horses allowed onto the premises are natively Spanish. France was tied into this trio because these horses were taught classical dressage. In French, “dressage” means training and it was primarily used to focus the horses into a military discipline. Obviously, Austria was a part of this union because they are the location for the school.

This performance was spectacular, even if you are not an avid equestrian you can still appreciate some of the technical difficultly that goes along with this performance. The horses demonstrated “piaffe” which is basically a hyper collected trot in place, they also showed off with a few “courbettes” which are where the horse will rear up and show that it is ready to charge the enemy. One of the most outrageous movements was the “capriole” which is a leap into the air and then the horse will thrust its back legs out to hopefully un-mount an enemy’s rider. There was also a “pas de deux” and a “double quadrille” which is where there are two horses or eight horses moving in synchronized movements, it is beyond impressive to watch.

The classical music they played was all Baroque in nature and showed how much Vienna values their history as such a great cultural hotspot. The traditions that The Spanish Riding School still keeps around are the way the riders enter into the arena; single file and then each one removes his hat and salutes Emperor Charles VI. This practice has been going on for centuries, and this shows their dedication to keep this riding school the same as it always has been. They strive to not modernize the facilities or the training; they want to keep it as classical as they can.

The way that military tactics have been transformed into a tourist attraction show that these tactics are outdated and now are considered beautiful but not harmful. The people of Vienna have welcomed this trifecta of riding into their city for centuries and it has proved to be a wonderful addition to the city where many people can enjoy a performance whether they love the horses, the music, the history, or the architecture!

A Walk in the Shadows of Legends


As an avid golfer, there are a few courses in the world that everyone who plays the game automatically reveres: Augusta, Pebble, Shinnecock, Carnoustie, Pinehurst, just to name a few. But there is no course in the world that is better known or more admired than the Old Course at St. Andrews in Scotland. It’s the Holy Grail of golf, and it’s where the sport originated more than six hundred years ago. Every year hundreds of thousands of golfers from around the world make the pilgrimage to St. Andrews to test their skills on the same grounds as Old Tom Morris, Hogan, Palmer, Player, Nicklaus, and Woods, and last weekend I decided to make the trip for myself.

Golf began in St. Andrews in the 1400s, and although it remained a regional fad for quite some time, the game began to grow rapidly in popularity in the 19th Century. (http://standrews.org.uk/home.aspx) Although the game was banned in Scotland during the 15th Century, it was again allowed less than one hundred years later, and it has remained popular ever since. Golf remained much of a regional sport for the next several hundred years, but it began to spread like wildfire once it was introduced to other areas of the world. The first Open Championship was held at St. Andrews in 1860, a tournament that marked the beginning of the game’s spread across the globe. (http://www.opengolf.com/en.aspx) Golf was popular mainly as a regional game until the early 19th Century, but as the British Empire was exercising its influence around the globe, it became popular in many different areas, including the United States. Golf took off in the U.S. towards the end of the 19th Century, and the game has grown exponentially ever since.

With all the history surrounding St. Andrews and the Old Course, the opportunity to go to the town and experience everything for myself was something that I simply couldn’t pass up. When I arrived in St. Andrews on Thursday evening, the first thing I did after checking into my hostel was to walk down to the course and simply admire the scenery. I then scouted the area to figure out where I needed to be to get on the course Friday morning, and the anticipation was almost more than I could bear. When I arrived at the starter’s booth on Friday morning I was only the fifth person in line, and at that point I realized that my dream of playing the Old Course was going to come true.

It’s somewhat difficult pinpoint a specific moment in the round that meant the most to me, but I would probably say that crossing the Swilcan Bridge on the 18th hole was one of the most incredible experiences of my life. Although very small in size, the bridge is one of the most recognizable symbols in the game of golf, and nearly every giant in the game has crossed it en route to a British Open title. Perhaps the greatest moment on the Swilcan Bridge in my lifetime occurred at the most recent Open to be hosted by St. Andrews in 2005. It was Jack Nicklaus’ final trip to the Open Championship, and as he crossed the bridge for the final time, en route to one final birdie at the 18th, he gave a famous wave to all the patrons at St. Andrews – an image that has become iconic in the years since. Although Jack isn’t necessarily my favorite player of all time, as I approached the 18th hole I couldn’t think about anything but that moment. It’s virtually impossible to describe the feelings that I had walking the fairways of the most famous course in golf; it’s absolutely overwhelming to be surrounded by so much history and to know that so many greats have walked that ground, and crossing the Swilcan Bridge brought all of that history to a head. It didn’t matter that I wasn’t playing particularly well, and it didn’t matter what I’d done at any previous point since I took up the game of golf. At that moment I was in the presence of greatness; in the presence of all the history of a game that has meant so much to my life and my development as an individual. Golf has meant more to me than I can possibly express, so the best way I can describe that moment is to say that it was absolutely surreal.

To be honest, I don’t know that it has completely hit me yet that I was able to play St. Andrews. The experiences I had on the course were incredible, but I think everything will really start to sink in when I watch the Open Championship at the Old Course in July. As I watch the tournament, I’ll be able to identify with the players on a level that I’ve never been able to before, and as more history is made at the Home of Golf, I’ll be able to tell everyone in my life that I was there. I walked those fairways, I navigated the massive double greens, and I survived (well, by my standards anyway) my trip to the Valley of Sin on 18. When the next bit of history occurs at St. Andrews I’ll be able to say that I was there; I experienced some of the same things, and frankly, there’s nothing in the world that gives me chills quite like that.

The Magnificent Lipizzaners





Since I was little I have loved animals and that definitely includes horses. I took lessons and have always liked the history behind horses and how much that they have to do with war and hunting and entertainment. When I discovered that there was a riding school in Vienna that was the most famous riding school in the world I knew that I wanted to go. Not only is it the oldest riding school it is also the only one where the High School of Classical Horsemanship has been cherished and maintained for over 430 years. The Spanish Riding School was one of the most magnificent places I have ever been. The sheer architecture alone is breath taking, let alone the performance done by the horses and riders. The School takes the “Spanish” part of its name from the horses, which originated from the Iberian Peninsula during the 16th century the horses were considered to be very elegant and could perform the intricate horsemanship. Since Katie rides horses and knows a lot more of the specifics then I do about the horsemanship she was able to educate me throughout the show and this made me appreciate the performance that much more. Something else that is special about these horses is that they are bread in Piber and left to roam the hills until they are around the age of four and that is when they are brought to Vienna to begin there training. Then when it comes to the rider it is very rigid process to become a rider that can perform. The rider has to overcome many challenges on his long journey from inexperienced cadet to fully qualified rider, perhaps even to chief rider. Depending on each cadet’s individual talent and personal commitment it takes approx. 4 to 6 years to leave the supervision of the Stable Master and achieve the career position of an assistant rider. An interesting fact is that up until two years ago there were no women riders and now there are two who have started the process of becoming an assistant rider. On top of the strict training the riders have to go through they also have to do all the care taking of the horses. This is the reason that many do not make it.


It was an amazing experience to feel as though I was a part of something so famous and important to the people of Vienna. Everything about the show and the different parts is sacred even so far as the chorography and the music that they choose to ride to. As I began to understand that the skills the riders and horses takes years to learn I began to appreciate the history and honor behind this great show and location. As I was doing more research on where the horses came from and the story behind it I discovered that “At the beginning of 2001 the Spanish Riding School in Vienna and the Federal Stud Piber in Styria were separated from the federal administration and made legally independent whereby the establishment is still wholly owned by the Austrian Federation. The two entities were merged into one legal company and a special Spanish Riding School Act charged the establishment with fulfilling certain duties for the public benefit. These include above all the continuation of the traditional breeding of Lipizzaners, the rearing and provision of prime stallions for the Spanish Riding School and the pursuance and preservation of the High School of Classical Horsemanship.” http://www.srs.at/ This is the way that the school is able to keep the history and honor of the school alive, to make sure that they will continue to have the honorable horses that they need. The history goes on and on and will continue to astonish viewers for years to come.

The View from the Top



Swiss Cheese, Swiss Army Knives, Swiss Chocolate, and Swiss Watches. When I think of Switzerland these national symbols and many more come to mind. Another thing that comes to mind are the extreme sports that are common to everyday life in Switzerland such as white water rafting, canyoning, and skydiving.

While in the city of Lauterbrunnen (a city located just outside of Interlaken) this past weekend we came with the intentions of eating Swiss chocolate, buying a Swiss army knife and participating in as many extreme sports as possible. Eating Swiss chocolate was accomplished within the first five minutes of stepping off the train, buying a Swiss army knife was a last minute decision, and going white water rafting was completed, but the almost freezing, rainy weather prevented us from going canyoning or skydiving.

On Saturday morning we woke up a little sore from white water rafting the day before, but extremely excited to go canyoning for the day. We had purchased a group package deal that allowed us to do both rafting and canyoning for under two hundred francs, so we showed up to the place and waited anxiously for the van driver to pick us up and transport us to the canyon. However, when the van pulled up and we all began to pile outside we were stopped short in our tracks by the news that we would not be able to go canyoning because of the rising waters and terrible weather. We hung our heads low, but knew that safety was more important than this once in a lifetime opportunity.
After arriving back at the backpacker’s lodge after an unsuccessful morning we looked out our window and spotted a waterfall. Immediately we looked at each other and knew what we could do instead of canyoning. It wouldn’t be as extreme jumping down waterfalls and climbing through the Swiss Alps, but we knew it would be just as beautiful and a nice alternative to climb up behind the waterfall and see Switzerland from a higher altitude. So we laced up our gym shoes, layered ourselves in warm clothes and began our hike to the waterfall. After about a half hour walk we had made it to a tunnel about two hundred feet up that lay directly behind the waterfall.

From our view we were able to see the beautiful Swiss Alps, which are just one of Switzerland’s three main geographical regions. The other two are Jura and Plateau. (http://www.swissworld.org/en/geography/). These Alps are also most of the reason that we were not able to go canyoning. The reason is because the geography of Switzerland means that the climate changes a lot from one region to another and can cause heavy rainfall that leads to rivers flooding and rising waters. Among the Alps, our spot in the opposing side of the Alps gave us a great view of the living areas that lay scattered among the sides and base of the mountains. Switzerland’s topography means that the central plateau is densely populated and that industry, farming, transport and leisure activities must compete for space with residential areas. This was apparent from where we stood because within the small town of Lauterbrunnen we were able to see a number of train tracks, a wide variety of farming and industry, and plenty of space for leisure activities as well as residential living.

From our view from the top it was clear to me why we had chosen Switzerland as our weekend hot spot. We weren’t here because of the touristy aspects that consisted of swiss cheese and white water rafting (although they were a plus) but because of the amazing mountain environment that supports the economy, as well as its people. (http://www.myswissalps.com/switzerland/switzerland-nature.asp?lang=EN) . All in all, even though we weren’t able to go canyoning, hiking up to the waterfall to see the amazing view made me forget that there had been any disappointments earlier that morning.

A Face Full of Culture

One day really is not enough to experience a country. Sure you can tell everyone back home that you went, but how much can you really do? That is why I decided to return to Switzerland for a second time and truly experience some of the extreme sports. There was a large group of people planning on going to the same hostel and doing mostly the same activities. We were all so excited. The first day there was amazing. We white water rafted down a river in the mountains, and it was so cold we needed wetsuits. Then we hung out in Interlaken and watched the USA-Slovenia game. It was interesting to watch how the locals experienced soccer games. Everyone was outside, especially the kids, in the city square, in the bars, everywhere, watching and cheering. Even we American’s, who do not really follow soccer were engulfed by the game. After a painful call by the referee, which cost us a win, we headed back to our hostel in Lauterbrunnen. Then we decided to eat dinner, shower, and relax before going to the bar.

After a fun few hours, most of us decided it was time to go to sleep. That way we could wake up early and be ready for our next activity: canyoning. So around midnight, my roommate and I headed to bed, hardly able to sleep with all the adrenaline running through us about how exciting canyoning would be. Unfortunately, the morning would bring a much different scenario. Around 4:00am, I woke up to take a routine bathroom break. I walked out of the room and turned on the timed lights in the hallway. When I walked out of the bathroom however, I was not able to find the light switch in the pitch black. I therefore casually walked back to my room, feeling every so often for our door, which was all the way at the end. Unfortunately, the first thing I felt was a set of stairs at the very end of the hallway that led up to a window. Since it was dark, I ended up tripping without anything to grab onto. All I did was throw out my hand hoping to brace it against the wall. The first thing it reached however, was the window, which instantly shattered. Then my face followed my hand and eventually the entire upper half of my body. By that time I was leaning too far to my side and I lost all balance and fell onto the base of the window. The glass that was still intact sliced my entire body from my belly button to chest, and scratched me in several other places.


The Infamous Room 5, Stairway, and Window Combo (With Window Covered)

The first thought that went through my mind was literally, “Shit! I do not want to pay for this!” So I picked myself up and turned into my room. As soon as I turned on the light and saw myself in the mirror, I knew there was a problem. It was not just a few scratches, I needed stitches, and lots of them. I immediately grabbed the towels and pressed them the best I could against the wounds. Then I woke up my roommate and told him to get ready to go get help. After I grabbed my wallet and passport we went downstairs and found some hostel workers who were still awake and able to take me to the hospital. After a 20 minute car ride, I was admitted into Interlaken Hospital and explained my situation. The doctors were amazing and spoke perfect English. They said not to worry, and that I would be just fine. I was very reassured at their confidence and professionalism. After a short debate about whether or not I would need a blood transfusion (luckily I did not) they began suturing me up. It was a three and a half hour ordeal, that ended with a final tally of 5 subcutaneous stitches and fifty two normal ones (two on my forehead the rest on my side).

At 9:00am I was discharged, and took a taxi back to Lauterbrunnen, which was 75 Francs, so I would not recommend it unless it was absolutely necessary. Of course I missed canyoning, but I was able to enjoy dinner that night with everyone after a long, much needed day’s sleep.

I consider myself extremely lucky that I was able to walk away from this situation without any more damage done. I never fell all the way through the window, I missed all major arteries, and I was in excellent medical hands. Also, I was able to remember my passport, wallet, and medical card.

Part of the reason I had such a lucky hospital stay was the country and area I was in. Interlaken is well known for extreme sports, and as such has amazing doctors ready to administer aid. The nurse was telling me she has seen much worse from people getting smashed against rocks while rafting, and complications with para sailing and skydiving. Switzerland’s amazing doctors are also a product of their modern society. Their health care system is both public and private, waiting lists are short, and the latest technology is available in all medical facilities. Yet just like other advanced countries, care is not cheap, so I definitely recommend not hurting yourself at all.